Clothing the Californio, Part 1 -- 18th century Spanish California background

giving tours at work, with a visiting "Chinese clay soldier".

So, I'm preparing to attend an event with my costume guild (The Greater Bay Area Costumer's Guild) next weekend, and it just so happens to coincide with one of my main areas of costume history research and interest: 18th and 19th century California women.  Since I work at a historic site (History San Jose) that incorporates two buildings that date from that time period, and since I dress in costume for some of my work there, I was asked to write an article about clothing from that time period, for my costume guild's member newsletter.  I'll be posting some of the article here in the following days, as I put together (hopefully!) a new costume to wear to this event.

Back from the Alviso Adobe!

the front and side of the Alviso Adobe, built as a
one-storey home in the 1830s, expanded with a second floor
in the 1850s, a private residence until the 1980s.

Well, unfortunately some of the people who were going to meet at the Alviso Adobe in Milpitas couldn't make it at the last minute, but my friend and I had a nice afternoon and we almost had the park to ourselves. Here are some photos from the day:

me standing on the porch.

the back of the house from the garden.

Mrs. Burnett's dress, part 2.

Harriet Burnett's dress,
ca. 1849
Photo: Elizabeth Urbach

Wow, I hadn't realized how long it's been since I last posted!  I've been keeping busy, though, with historical things.  Researching Harriet Burnett's governor's ball dress (see photo at left) has been really interesting.  Unfortunately, I couldn't find any period description of the dress at the ball in any of the contemporary newspapers, because San Jose didn't have its own newspaper until 1851 and the ball was in 1849.  The nearest local papers were out of Monterey and San Francisco, and relied on the mail bringing news from San Jose in order to publish the Legislative happenings.  Unfortunately, the winter of 1849 was so rainy and stormy that the roads were unusably muddy and no news could get out of or into San Jose!  It took until the end of January 1850 for the rain to let up and the roads dry out enough that the mail could get through to Monterey and San Francisco, so by that time any excitement about the ball had died down, and the papers recorded the inauguration of Governor Burnett, and mentioned, almost as an aside, "there was a ball in San Jose." 

There was no further description or mention of the event itself, although an interview with someone who was there, done many years later, and published in 1941, has the woman recalling that the ball was "the" event for the Bay Area for years afterwards.  I think the only place where I could find a fuller description of the ball, would be in the letters or journal of someone (a woman) who was there, but I don't know of any journals or letters from 1849 in San Jose that have been published, or are available to the public!  I think I'm at a dead end in verifying the provenance of the dress, so I've just made a record for it in the museum database, saying that the dress "is said to have been worn" at the Inauguration Ball.  I'll have to leave it at that for now.  It's been really fun reading all those old newspapers, though.  I found a website, the California Digital Newspaper Collection, that has scanned the papers into digital form and made them readable (you can enlarge the printing from the teeny-tiny original size!). 

Back from a summer afternoon in the 1850s

Here is my picnic spot, with a view of the Fallon House.
Photo by Kim.

Well, the ca. 1850 sheer dress I've been working on is finally finished enough to be wearable, although there are some things I'm going to have to tweak ...  But such is life!  Our Greater Bay Area Costumers' Guild Victorian Picnic was a success, with perfect weather (August in San Jose can be scorching hot, but we had a cool breeze all afternoon), plenty of shade, and everyone in wonderful mid-Victorian summer day dress.

Mid-Victorian sheer muslin dress inspiration

ca. 1850 fashion plate.

So, I'm slowly but surely working on my sheer dress for the GBACG Mid-Victorian Summer Picnic at the Fallon House at the end of next month.  Originally, I wanted to make my dress more ca. 1848 because I like the simple lines of Gold Rush-era styling, and I like the fact that not as many people do 1840s and 1850s costume as 1860s.  Not that more people shouldn't make the earlier Victorian styles, but I like being a little "different" from the majority, and with the popularity of Civil War re-enacting in the area, 1860s styles are much more frequently made.

Displaying my grandma's wedding dress.

The dress on display at History Park. 
Photo: Elizabeth Urbach.

I was allowed to put my grandma's wedding dress on display this weekend for a special event at the museum where I work.  In preparation for the event, I had to design the exhibit, arrange for items like a dress form and other display props,  and do my own set up and take down.  I also discovered that the gown and veil needed some TLC. before it would survive the display!  Even though they were only made in 1945 (and there are many things from the '40s that are in such good condition they can still be used), the gown and veil were literally falling apart in places.  I researched what it would take to restore them and found that I had neither the tools nor the money to do so properly ($80 per yard museum-quality silk crepeline for a support lining, anyone?).  The rayon satin of the gown, and the nylon (or rayon?) net of the veil were badly ripped in places, and the gown fabric was literally breaking off into bits at the edges of the torn areas.  The best I could do was to baste strips of well-washed cotton muslin from seam to seam across the torn areas, to take pressure off of the fabric, and then baste the edges of the tears to the muslin.

Ca. 1945 wedding cake topper made of icing sugar.
Photo: Elizabeth Urbach.

Some fun Bay Area autumn events.

Need ideas for things to do?  Just in case your schedule isn't full enough already ... 

1. Who Do You Think You Are? Intro to Genealogy: beginning Saturday October 2, 2010 from 11:00AM - 12:30PM.  At the California Genealogical Society and Library, 2201 Broadway LL2, Oakland, California 94612.  Phone: (510) 663-1358. “Volunteer members are available to help you use our extensive resources and online databases. Bring information about an ancestor's family and we will help you find them in the 1920 or 1930 census. Everyone is welcome the first Saturday of every month. Open 10 a.m. - 4 p.m.  Join us for a FREE Introduction to Genealogy Class every FIRST SATURDAY of the MONTH from 11:00 a.m. - 12:30 p.m.”

2. Sing Me Your Story, Dance Me Home: Art and Poetry from Native California:  October 2 - December 5, 2010, Tues. – Sun., 11:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m. The de Saisset Museum at Santa Clara University, 500 El Camino Real, Santa Clara, CA 95053.  Phone: (408)554 – 4528.

3. Meet Author Mary Jo Ignoffo: Thursday, Nov 11 6:30pm at Barnes & Noble Stevens Creek, San Jose, CA.  “Come meet local writer Mary Jo Ignoffo as she talks about her new book, Captive of the Labyrinth, the first full-length biography of Sarah Winchester, the eccentric builder of the mystery house that bears her name.” 

4. The San Francisco Fall Antique Show: October 27-31, at Fort Mason Center, San Francisco.  This year’s theme: “Chinoiserie: Rococo to Eco.” “The San Francisco Fall Antiques Show is the oldest continuously operating international antiques show on the West Coast. The Show features approximately seventy dealers from across the United States and Europe, offering for sale an extraordinary range of fine and decorative arts representing all styles and periods including American, English, Continental, and Asian furniture, silver, ceramics, glass, jewelry, rugs, textiles, paintings, prints, and photographs.”

'Teens costume for late-summer!

Getting ready for two local events coming up: a croquet picnic with the South Bay Ladies' Tea Guild, and the Antique Auto Show at History Park, both in September. A group that I volunteer with, Portraits of the Past, attends the Antique Auto Show in costume to provide ambiance, and coordinates a costume contest there each year. Usually I wear 1920s frocks to the Auto Show, because they're easy to wear and cute as all get out, but this year I think I'll do mid teens, say around 1916 or so. I have a dress, but I need a better hat, so here is an image from my antique print collection that I am thinking about using:
antique fashion print ca. 1913.
I think I have a modern sun hat in a similar shape that I can use, and I have a lovely vintage lace scarf that I will probably drape over the brim like some of the examples in the print. My dress is a sheer white with a woven windowpane design, and I wear it with a wide blue ribbon sash that I found in my grandmother's sewing box (which I inherited) after her death.

Here are some other Edwardian, 'teens and 20s costume images for my inspiration and your enjoyment. They include various members of Portraits of the Past at past Antique Auto Shows as well as the historic fashion shows that we perform in each month.

catalog image ca. 1915. From the Costumer's Manifesto.

Sears catalog image ca. 1917. From Costumer's Manifesto.



















At the Harris-Lass House, June 2009.

photo ca. 1918. From the Sense & Sensibility website.

at the Antique Auto Show, September 2006.

Visit the Star Trek exhibit in San Jose and then have a Star Trek tea party!

“Tea. Earl Grey. Hot.” One of the most famous lines in Star Trek history. What would Captain Picard have enjoyed with his cup of Earl Grey tea, as he planned his ship’s next move? Think about that while you visit San Jose’s Tech Museum and see the new Star Trek exhibit that opened on October 23! General admission is $25, and they recommend buying tickets in advance. The exhibit features a replica of the bridge from the original U.S.S. Enterprise, props from all of the television series and movies, and even an interactive Star Trek flight simulator! Afterwards, go home and continue the Trekkie (or Trekker) fun for a while with a Star Trek tea!

Here are some Terran (Earth) tea-table foods mentioned in one or more of the Star Trek episodes:

Earl Grey tea (hot)
Mint tea
Chamomile tea

Croissants
Brioches

Bulgarian canapes (crackers with cheese and olives)
Watercress sandwiches

Madeleines
Peach cobbler
Chocolate cake

Set the tea table in shades of gray, black, white, blue, red and yellow, with touches of metallic tones, anything that reminds you of the various sets that were part of the Star Trek T.V. shows and movies. If you have Star Trek fan paraphanalia, this is the perfect time to pull it out and show it off! If you have money to spend, there are, of course, tons of items available at the Tech Museum gift shop and on the Internet. Apparently, you can even buy Captain Picard’s tea set if you’re so inclined!

The Tech Museum of Innovation is located at 201 S Market St., San Jose, CA 95113-2008. Phone: (408) 294-8324, website: www.thetech.org. Enjoy your museum visit and Star Trek Tea!

“Earl Grey tea – Memory Alpha, the Star Trek Wiki”
“Klingon tea ceremony”
“Tea – Memory Alpha, the Star Trek Wiki”
The Official Star Trek Site
“Tea. Earl Grey. Hot.” Video montage
“Kurtcu’s Star Trek discussion at Ku Day Ta”
Star Trek tea bag cosy
The Star Trek Cookbook preview on Google Books
Star Trek interactive exhibit

More Victorian events in San Jose this season!

image from Nikolay Dimitrov, www.e-Cobo.com
Afternoon Tea and Ornament Making: Sunday, November 15th, 1:00-5:00pm. At a private residence in San Jose*. RSVP to Miranda at eurohaus@earthlink.net. Please note: Because of materials and limited table space, you must RSVP for this event. This event is limited to approx 15 crafters, so please RSVP right away. “Please join us for a lively Autumn afternoon of taking Tea and making Victorian Ornaments. The ornaments we are making are to support and raise funds for the operating budget for the Andrew P. Hill House. We hope to participate in the Heritage Holiday event on Dec 6th, where the VPA will have a table at the crafts faire and sell the ornaments. All the supplies needed to create ornaments will be present, but you are welcome to bring your favorite pair of scissors, or scrapbooking tools to help you create works of art. If you have doilies, ribbon, lace or other bits n bobs that you would like to donate to the cause, please feel free to bring them (we would appreciate that). This event is free. We're asking that everyone bring a potluck contribution to the tea table. Tea will be in the English style, so think cucumber sandwiches, scones, lemon curd and such. If there is more interest, we may be able to accommodate more. *location will be sent to you upon receipt of your RSVP. Hope you can make this fun filled afternoon!”

Hill House Docent meeting: Sat Nov 14th, 10:00am till noon, Firehouse (upstairs) at History Park, 1650 Senter Road, San Jose. “Ever wonder what it takes to be a docent? Please come to the Docent meeting where all this (and more) will be discussed. We’ll meet in a comfortable casual atmosphere and learn more about the wonderful world of Docenting from Barbara Johnston. We’ll also chat about the upcoming Docent training session, where you can learn all you need to know to get involved in this fulfilling experience. What can possibly be more rewarding than sharing the beautiful Hill House, and its rich history with an appreciative public. Please pop an email or phone call to Miranda to let us know you are coming.”

Help man the table at Heritage Holiday: Sat Dec 5th from 12:00 noon till 5:00pm, at History Park, 1650 Senter Road, San José, CA 95112. (408) 287-2290. www.historysanjose.org Spend an afternoon celebrating the holidays in old fashioned Victorian style. There will be crafts for sale and other activities. We are looking for a few volunteers to help Diana and Hullene to sit at our table and sell the ornaments and other items to raise money for the Hill House operating fund. It's just a few hours spent in the festive atmosphere of History Park. Please contact Miranda if interested in helping out. Thanks!’

Fun things to do in San Jose.

Elizabeth Urbach. Tatting shuttles and lace on display at History Park.












1. Go to a World War 2-era living history event!

Third Annual Day of Remembrance: Saturday, August 8, 2009. Noon to 5 p.m. History Park, 1650 Senter Rd., San Jose, CA 95112. Free admission. “Keep the Spirit of '45 Alive! Where were YOU when World War II ended? Join us for an exciting fun-filled afternoon as we honor the legacy of America’s “greatest generation” by commemorating the end of World War II in August 1945. * Parade at 1 pm * Special guest, Edith Shain, the nurse from the famous "VJ Day at Times Square" photograph * Visit the Home Front exhibit in the Pacific Hotel Gallery * Share where YOU were when the War ended * Dance to music of The Swing Solution * Visit World War II Living Historians * Singing Blue Stars of the USS Hornet. Bring the whole family and help make history! For more information call 408.918.1042.”

2. See a great exhibit of local 19th century textiles before it closes!

She Made It!: The Tradition of Women’s Arts and Crafts in Santa Clara Valley – exhibit extended through August 16, 2009. Leonard & David McKay Gallery at the Pasetta House, History Park, 1650 Senter Rd., San Jose. Friday through Sunday, 12 noon - 5 pm. “‘She Made It! The Tradition of Women’s Arts and Crafts in Santa Clara Valley’ is an exhibition of over 35 handmade items that explores the transition of women’s craftmaking from that of utilitarian production or social development tool to a form of art and individual expression. Mostly selected from History San Jose’s collection, the exhibit includes quilts and samplers, clothing and accessories, baskets and hair work, many of which are on display for the first time. Three generations of hand-made wedding dresses provide visual cues of how times have changed from 1895 to 1982. ... The San Jose State Textile Program was once a component of the Home Economics department. Students were instructed in clothing and fabric design, and produced many of the artifacts that will be on display. Although this department dissolved in 1987, instruction in weaving and textile arts can still be found on campus through the School of Art & Design.”

California State Park System to be closed!

Countryside. Image from AntiqueClipArt.com
I just received word of this situation: beginning today, if all goes as Governor Schwarzenegger has planned, the California Legislature will cut the State Park system completely out of the California state budget by July 2010! This represents our state government's attitude toward California's historic and natural heritage ...

The State Park system receives $143 million -- less than 1/10 of 1% of the budget -- per year to support 279 parks spread throughout California, and the effect of this budget cut would be drastic. Most parks aren't receiving enough funding as it is! Not only would it not return enough money to the state to make a difference in balancing the budget, but it would cause an estimated 80% of state parks to close completely, cutting off the seasonal income that comes with tourists who visit the parks. Every dollar in State Park funding returns more than $2 to the state in the form of taxes and fees! In 2008 the State Park system saw about 80 million visitors, and with the recession shrinking everyone's travel budgets, that number is expected to increase this year.

We forget that many of our beaches and recreational areas, as well as many California missions and areas like Columbia State Historic Park and Candlestick Point are all part of the California State Park system, and will be closed to the public sometime this year. Countless California elementary school students have to travel to the Missions and state parks to complete their studies, and this will be impossible once the missions, Monterey Historic Park, Sutter's Fort State Historic Park, Marshall Gold Discovery State Historic Park, Fort Ross, and even the California State Capitol Museum are closed. Not to mention Big Basin Redwoods, Angel Island, Half Moon Bay State Beach, Hearst San Simeon State Park, Monterey and Natural Bridges State Beaches, and the Anza-Borrego Desert State Park. If you want a full list of parks that will close, visit the State Park website at http://www.calparks.org/

It looks like there is a letter-writing campaign that began back in May, and I don't know if it's still officially running, but maybe more e-mails, letters and calls will make a difference. Apparently the parks lose half of their funding today, and the rest of it within 12 months; only 20% of the state parks have other sources of revenue and are expected to reduce personnel, hours, and accessibility, but be able to stay open. *sigh* This situation is not the fault of the state giving too much money to the State Parks; it's the fault of big-shot politicians of both parties who sit in their offices in Sacramento and line their own and each others' pockets! Cutting politicians' paychecks and bonuses would go farther towards balancing the budget than cutting the entire State Park system out of the General Fund! I don't like to get into politics too much, but if you'd like to be able to vacation in the state of California this summer, and want to give California politicians a piece of your mind, you can find more information, including their contact info., at this website: http://ga3.org/campaign/budget_may09.

A picnic in the park on a Saturday in Spring.

our picnic table at the park.
We had a really nice time last Saturday at History Park, although it was fairly warm. The roses were in bloom!

We found a shady picnic table, O'Brien's had plenty of iced tea and ice cream, and conversation flowed freely and pleasantly. There were plenty of fried chicken salad sandwiches, cookies, and chai green tea pudding (!) for everyone.

antique 1890s wedding dress in the _She Made It_ exhibit.

Then we visited the two new exhibits, _Home Front_ and _She Made It_, both of which were really interesting. _Home Front_ is all about the effect of World War 2 on American families at home, including USOs, rationing, Victory gardens, and the internment camps. _She Made It_ featured a nice collection of textiles -- embroideries, garments, lace, tapestries, samplers and even hair art -- made by women between the mid 1800s and late 1900s.

Touring the Umbarger House at History Park.


At 2 p.m. we joined History San Jose docent Chuck Morrow for a really nice tour; despite the heat and the fact that our feet were hurting in our Victorian style shoes, we willingly walked all over the park! We saw the Umbarger House, Santa Ana One Room Schoolhouse, Fruit Barn and Dashaway Livery Stables.

Riding the restored antique trolley through the park.
Lastly, we enjoyed the breeze as we rode the restored vintage trolley.

History Park is a real hidden treasure in San Jose. It is surrounded by so many gardens and stands of trees that you can't hear the traffic going up and down busy Senter Rd. just outside the gate! You step back in time when you step into the park, and while parking in the city lot costs you $6, admission to the park itself is free! History Park is open to the public between noon and 5 p.m. every day except Mondays, throughout the summer, and the gift shop, ice cream shop and cafe, and a few of the restored historic houses are open on weekends for visitors to see. There are also some great community events scheduled for the season, beginning in June, and the Education department is offering a brand-new kind of tour this year, a summer day camp for kids! Check the website at www.historysanjose.org for more information. I encourage everyone to make the trip to San Jose this summer and enjoy this park!