| Spanish girl and woman, and their Moorish and Indian maids. By Father Ignacio Tirsch, ca. 1770. Baja California. |
So, in analyzing the
images of Spanish-era/18th century Californio women, these
are the common clothing elements: white linen camisa (women's shirt/chemise)
with medium-high neckline (no visible cleavage) edged with a gathered ruffle,
with full elbow-length sleeves edged with a gathered ruffle that shows under
the jacket sleeves; fitted wool or linen cuerpo or casaca (bodice
or casaque/jacket), with medium-high round or square neckline (no visible
cleavage), waist pointed at center front, stiffened with light boning and/or
cording in front and at body seams, elbow-length sleeves with a slightly longer
ruffle (compared to ruffle on camisa sleeves), hip-length peplum/skirt
attached to the back and sides of bodice at waist edge, laced over a
dark/contrasting stomacher, or laced or possibly hook/eye fastened closed edge-to-edge
at center front; two (non-ruffled) ankle-length faldas, or petticoats,
in solid colors (wealthier women are shown in cotton print petticoats),
including red – often with white cotton or linen yoke from the waist to the
hips and red wool or other color from there to the hem; black or white cotton
or wool stockings and plain brown or black leather shoes with low heels; solid-colored,
or white, or striped, cotton or linen rebozo (rectangular cloth veil or
shawl), or lace mantilla (large rectangular or triangular veil worn by
wealthier women) -- no cap, hat or bonnet -- covering the head, and wrapped
around the shoulders and neck; hair braided and wound around the head (perhaps
like 16th century Italian hair taping) under the rebozo or mantilla.
