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Sunday, December 27, 2015
The new year approaches!
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Saturday, November 28, 2015
Holiday catch-up.
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Thanksgiving Day--The Dinner _Harper's Weekly_, November 1858 |
Sunday, September 27, 2015
Back from the San Francisco International Tea Festival!
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Ferry Building Marketplace, San Francisco. Photo: Elizabeth Urbach. |
Thursday, September 24, 2015
Changes, good and bad
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Image by Joy Coffman. Wikimedia Commons. |
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Friday, June 12, 2015
Clothing the Californio, part 4 -- the Gold Rush era.
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Governor Don Pio Pico, his wife, and nieces, ca. 1850, San Diego Historical Society. |
By the time California
entered the United States in 1850, the social and political climate of the
state was radically changing. Hispanic
immigrants from Mexico, Central and South America, entered California and headed
to the gold mines, bringing their own culture with them. Non-Hispanic immigrants to the state no longer
acclimated themselves to California's previous culture, and they competed with
the Californios for land, status,
resources, and political clout. Many Californio women married non-Hispanic
men during this time period not only because the newcomers were different and
exciting, but because to do so helped secure their property (an
English-speaking man to manage their affairs as local law became much more
English and American in influence) and social status. During this time, Californio families began to identify themselves with Spanish
European culture, in opposition to the non-Californio residents' characterization
of all Hispanic people as Mexican and therefore "non-white", as well as to avoid association with the political and social unrest happening in the Republic of Mexico. Californios began to wear the same
styles and garments that other Americans wore, and look just as Victorian as someone from the East Coast during the same time period.
Thursday, June 11, 2015
Clothing the Californio, part 3 -- the Mexican period.
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Working-class man and women in California. Monterey State Historic Park. Photo: Elizabeth Urbach. |
After 1824, under
Mexican law, the central government basically ignored California, but the Californios
were given free trade and loosened domestic business regulations; when the
Missions were secularized, some people received large grants of good Mission
land from the government, and were able to become self-sufficient and even begin
to accumulate wealth. They used their wealth
(in hides and tallow) to purchase manufactured goods that were brought to
California on international trade ships every few weeks or so, on average, but
most ranch owners didn't live in aristocratic style until much later. Many of the Native people who had been part
of the Mission system stayed on the land and became the servants of the
wealthier ranch owners, but by the 1830s, this state of society was still
really new and changing. Americans,
English, and other non-Hispanic immigrants began to arrive in small numbers at
this time, and generally adopted Californio fashions, taking Spanish
names and joining the Catholic Church, as well as becoming Mexican citizens,
purchasing rancho land, or marrying into land-owning families and inheriting
it.
Wednesday, June 10, 2015
Clothing the Californio, part 2 -- re-creating 18th century Spanish California costume
Spanish girl and woman, and their Moorish and Indian maids. By Father Ignacio Tirsch, ca. 1770. Baja California. |
So, in analyzing the
images of Spanish-era/18th century Californio women, these
are the common clothing elements: white linen camisa (women's shirt/chemise)
with medium-high neckline (no visible cleavage) edged with a gathered ruffle,
with full elbow-length sleeves edged with a gathered ruffle that shows under
the jacket sleeves; fitted wool or linen cuerpo or casaca (bodice
or casaque/jacket), with medium-high round or square neckline (no visible
cleavage), waist pointed at center front, stiffened with light boning and/or
cording in front and at body seams, elbow-length sleeves with a slightly longer
ruffle (compared to ruffle on camisa sleeves), hip-length peplum/skirt
attached to the back and sides of bodice at waist edge, laced over a
dark/contrasting stomacher, or laced or possibly hook/eye fastened closed edge-to-edge
at center front; two (non-ruffled) ankle-length faldas, or petticoats,
in solid colors (wealthier women are shown in cotton print petticoats),
including red – often with white cotton or linen yoke from the waist to the
hips and red wool or other color from there to the hem; black or white cotton
or wool stockings and plain brown or black leather shoes with low heels; solid-colored,
or white, or striped, cotton or linen rebozo (rectangular cloth veil or
shawl), or lace mantilla (large rectangular or triangular veil worn by
wealthier women) -- no cap, hat or bonnet -- covering the head, and wrapped
around the shoulders and neck; hair braided and wound around the head (perhaps
like 16th century Italian hair taping) under the rebozo or mantilla.
Tuesday, June 9, 2015
Clothing the Californio, Part 1 -- 18th century Spanish California background
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giving tours at work, with a visiting "Chinese clay soldier". |
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Tuesday, June 2, 2015
And back to costuming: Historical Sew Monthly catch-up -- War & Peace
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George Washington, by Charles Peale Polk, c. 1793. Smithsonian Museum. |
The Challenge: April – War & Peace:
the extremes of conflict and long periods of peacetime both influence what
people wear. Make something that shows the effects of war, or of extended
peace.
A friend of my parents' is in the media business, part-time, and
occasionally has a project where he needs a costume designer. The first time he brought me into a film
project, around 20 years ago, I went up to the Santa Cruz mountains where the
team was filming a documentary about Johann Sebastian Bach, using the
California Redwoods as stand-ins for the forests of Germany. I was a costume assistant – ironing, dressing
people, polishing shoes, and mending – and it was a really interesting
experience. A few months ago, this same
friend called me up and said he was part of another small film project, and
they needed a costume designer. This
time, since there was only one actor to be costumed, they only needed one
person, and he asked me to put together a bid.
I must have been the only costume designer who sent a bid, because they
accepted mine immediately! Then, the
actor that I was about to start costuming ended up not being hired (the client
on the East Coast didn't like his audition tape) and I was put on hold for over
a month while my parents' friend tried to find someone else. Two weeks ago the company found someone that
they liked, and the client on the East Coast liked, too, so I found myself in
the middle of research.
Labels:
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Sunday, May 3, 2015
Historical Food Fortnightly Challenge #23: Soda Nectar from 1869.
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Ingredients for Soda Nectar: sugar, lemon, soda. Photo: Elizabeth Urbach |
The Challenge: # 23 -- Sweet Sips
and Potent Potables Whether it’s hard or soft, we all enjoy a
refreshing beverage! Pick a historic beverage to recreate - remember to sip
responsibly!
This is definitely a catch-up posting, but I
have a feeling that I'll be re-doing this challenge several times over the next
few months, as the weather continues to heat up! I have been collecting historical beverage
recipes, both alcoholic and Temperance, for a while now, and it was really
difficult to choose which one to make. I
didn't have all of the ingredients for some of the most interesting recipes,
and I didn't have all of the equipment necessary to make others. I still intend to make drinking chocolate the
18th century (or earlier) Spanish California way – once I get a
chocolate pot and chocolate mill – and also a related drink called Racahout
from 18th and early 19th century England, as well as some
kind of punch and some of those Civil War-era soda powders (especially ginger!). However, it took a particularly warm spring
day, a dinner of Chinese take-out, and a lack of things to drink, to get me to
complete this challenge, with things I already had in the kitchen.
Labels:
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Friday, May 1, 2015
Back to costuming: the mid-Victorian sheer dress.
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Original sheer muslin dress, 1840s. Old Sacramento Living History Museum. |
Mid-Victorian daytime fashions were not all about heavy, opaque fabrics; warm weather allowed for light dresses of semi-transparent fabrics like muslin and barege, trimmed with embroidery, ribbons and lace for a cool, floating visual effect. These gowns, called sheer dresses, or "clear muslin dresses", were especially popular at seaside and tourist resorts, during the 1840s through the 1870s. They were worn for morning, afternoon and evening, changing the bodice style, and were popular in England and North America, as well as when visiting warmer climates like Italy. These followed the lines of mainstream fashion, but included characteristic features such as shorter sleeves, lower necklines, partial bodice linings, and depending on the transparency of the fashion fabric, separate colored under-dresses. This article, first published in the Greater Bay Area Costumer's Guild's newsletter, Finery, will focus on day or afternoon styles for these dresses.
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Saturday, March 7, 2015
Historical Food Fortnightly Challenge #18 Descriptive Food -- Tuff-Taffity Cream from 1670.
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Ingredients for Tuff-Taffity Cream. Photo: Elizabeth Urbach |
The Challenge: # 18 -- Descriptive Food We all know
those recipes that come attached to interesting and imaginative names - slumps,
crumbles, buckles, trifles, flummery. Pick a historic recipe that has a
descriptive title.
There were so many interesting-sounding
recipes that I considered for this challenge, but I decided on Tuff-Taffity
Cream because I wanted to know why it had that name! Other descriptive recipe titles are a bit
more clear, but this one ... I have read about a fabric called "taffety"
– which became our modern "taffeta" – but I don't know what period
taffety was like, and why a custard would be called by that name. And the "tuff" part? Modern taffeta is a stiff, glossy fabric that
is used to make women's formal gowns, but it's also lightweight and can be
luxurious, and I thought that might be the clue to the relationship between the
fabric and this recipe.
The Dictionary of Traded Goods and Commodities defines "tuftaffeta" (also spelled "tufted tafata") as a silk taffeta (a fabric which has a smooth finish), that has a pile or nap arranged in tufts, to create a decorated pattern: "creating a pile and then cutting some of it only so as to form a pattern was very popular in the sixteenth century and early seventeenth, but largely died out thereafter as different ways of finishing became available. ... Tuftaffetas were normally made of silk and were therefore valued highly, but some were made of half-linen." So, "tuff-taffity" is really "tufted taffeta", which is a decorative silk fabric. I guessed that the custard called "tuff-taffity cream" must have a silken, "tufted" texture, then. I don't know that I've ever eaten a food with a "tufted" texture!
The Dictionary of Traded Goods and Commodities defines "tuftaffeta" (also spelled "tufted tafata") as a silk taffeta (a fabric which has a smooth finish), that has a pile or nap arranged in tufts, to create a decorated pattern: "creating a pile and then cutting some of it only so as to form a pattern was very popular in the sixteenth century and early seventeenth, but largely died out thereafter as different ways of finishing became available. ... Tuftaffetas were normally made of silk and were therefore valued highly, but some were made of half-linen." So, "tuff-taffity" is really "tufted taffeta", which is a decorative silk fabric. I guessed that the custard called "tuff-taffity cream" must have a silken, "tufted" texture, then. I don't know that I've ever eaten a food with a "tufted" texture!
Food historian Ivan Day
contributed his opinion on the subject on his blog, Historic Food: "Quince
marmalade or sliced quinces were added to apple pies and taffety tarts to
improve their flavour. The taffety tart filling ... also contains preserved
orange.Taffety tarts borrowed their name from the textile material called
taffety, but why this was the case is not understood. A more elaborate taffety
called tuff-taffety was popular for making hats in the Tudor period. Hannah
Wooley, the seventeenth century writer on domestic matters gives a recipe for a
tuff-taffity cream, which is a smooth frothy cream garnished with red current
jelly." So there you have it! Maybe
"tufted" is the same as "frothy"? Let's find out.
Labels:
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Saturday, February 28, 2015
Historical Food Fortnightly Challenge #20 -- Eggs a L'Exposition
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The Palace of Fine Arts, from _Splendors of the Panama-Pacific Exposition_. Photo: Elizabeth Urbach |
The Challenge: #20 -- Foods served at notable events in history
What kind of food was
served at the coronation of Queen Elizabeth? What did Benjamin Franklin eat at
the Constitutional Convention? Find a food item that was served at a notable
event in history, research the recipe, and recreate the dish.
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The Tower of Jewels, from _Splendors of the Panama- Pacific Exposition_. Photo: Elizabeth Urbach |
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The Tower of Jewels at Night, from _Splendors of the Panama- Pacific Exposition_. Photo: Elizabeth Urbach |
The fair was so popular
that souvenirs of all kinds were created, from replica glass "jewels"
to imitate those decorating the Tower of Jewels, to illustrated picture books –
one of which I have! – to special "Exhibition" cookbooks. I decided to make one of the recipes in the
souvenir cookbook, The Pan-Pacific Cookbook: Savoury Tidbits from the
World's Fare, which features international recipes as well as ones
apparently created especially for the Exposition. This recipe is on the Pan-Pacific Exposition website. The book is available for
free in PDF form on OpenLibrary, and available in paperback re-print for $13 or
so on Amazon.
Playing catch-up with the Historical Food Fortnightly: Challenge #17 -- Tea caudle.
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Chinese teapot. Photo: Elizabeth Urbach |
Of course, being a tea
drinker and tea blogger, I am interested in the history of tea, and I'm very
aware of the part tea played in English and American history. Although tea was advertised as early as 1658,
it was officially introduced to England in 1662, as part of the dowry of the
new Queen of England, Catherine of Braganza, who married King Charles II. A Portuguese princess, Catherine also brought
to England trading rights at all of Portugal's trading posts around the world, including
the ones where tea could be purchased.
Tea became extremely popular at court almost immediately, and spread to
the aristocracy within the first few years.
Within twenty years, the upper middle classes were also familiar with
it, and drinking it enough to provoke articles and dire warnings against it in
newspapers and the increasingly popular domestic manuals and recipe books,
aimed at the aristocracy and the upper-middle classes, as well as their
servants. By 1750 tea was being called
"unwholesome" or even "of a poisonous nature", and said to
cause "distempers, tremors, palseys, vapours, fits" and other nerve
damage, when "drank to excess;" people were encouraged to put
"cream, &c." in their tea to counteract the "corroding"
nature of the lime and alum used to make loaf sugar (when people sweetened
their tea), or to use lavender oil, nettle flowers, or quicksilver-water, in
making their tea, to "prevent the rise of vapours"! But how was the tea made?
There is some suggestion
in the earliest books, that people were drinking tea, or perhaps ordering it
ready-made, along with the other fashionably new drinks, coffee and chocolate,
in tea and coffee houses, more often than making it at home, since the recipe
books from those first 20 years don't contain any recipes for making tea. The diarist Samuel Pepys wrote in 1660 that
he sent for a cup of "tee, a China drink" one day when at home, but
it's not clear where he got the tea, whether it was made in his own kitchen, or
brought from a tea house. These tea and
coffee houses became wildly popular, rivaling taverns in their customer
numbers, but more fashionable than taverns because they sold the exotic,
expensive, imports, so they were patronized by the aristocracy and upper middle
classes, as well as anyone else who could afford the price of a cup of tea or
coffee, including women, in many cases.
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Wednesday, January 7, 2015
Historical Food Fortnightly Challenge #14 (re-do) and #15 -- Sacred or Profane: Deviled Beef Bones
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Deviled Beef Bones. Photo: Elizabeth Urbach. |
The Challenge -- Sacred or Profane: "In this challenge, be as divine or as devious as you like!
It could be a food with connections to a religion, a dish served for sacred
celebrations, or a concoction with a not-so-polite name. Whatever your choice,
show us how naughty and/or nice you can be!"
In looking for recipes to fit this challenge, I thought
about making a Nun's Cake, or even a "bowl of smoking Bishop" as
mentioned in The Christmas Carol, but
in looking for fresh marrow bones to re-do the Florentine of Marrow from the
previous challenge, I found a recipe for Deviled Beef Bones that sounded
interesting. Plus, it can be a (very)
late entry for both the Fear Factor and Sacred or Profane challenges!
The
history of eating bone marrow goes back to prehistoric times. Archaeologists are always finding bones and
bone fragments in the kitchen refuse heaps that are dug up, and it seems that
until the Medieval era, the bones were simply roasted or boiled for broth, and
then broken to extract the marrow, which was then eaten as a dish by
itself. The 17th and 18th
centuries seem to have been the heyday of marrow's popularity, with multiple
recipes for marrow puddings, both boiled and baked, marrow tarts, pasties,
fritters, and other sweet dishes. By the
19th century, marrow seemed to be most popular as a dish of
beef-bones, roasted or broiled, served with toast or potatoes, or some kind of
starch. Narrow little marrow spoons
became available to make it easier to scoop the marrow out of the bones,
especially since recipes often called for the bones to be served cut into
fairly large pieces, more than an inch or two long.
I
found a recipe for Broiled Beef Bones from Cassell's
Dictionary of Cookery (1875) on the Food Timeline website, and just
underneath it, there was a recipe for Deviled Bones from the same book. The second recipe wasn't long on
instructions, so I improvised with the ingredient amounts, and consulted the
first recipe for cooking time. Deviled
bones, or kidneys, or anything else in a Victorian recipe, is generally called
that because it is intended to be cooked or served with a spicy sauce or spice
rub containing lots of pepper, or horseradish, or other "hot"
spices. This recipe called for a spice
rub of mustard, cayenne, and mushroom ketchup, which has ginger, pepper, and
other warm spices in it.
Never having eaten marrow bones, I had no real idea what to
expect. I didn't know how much marrow
I'd get out of each bone, or what the texture would be like. I don't have any marrow spoons, so I just
used a table knife, and it seemed to work all right. I had all the ingredients in my pantry, even
the mushroom ketchup, so I made the recipe as written, and served the marrow
with toast on the side, as instructed in a third recipe from the same
cookbook.
Thursday, January 1, 2015
A failed Florentine of Marrow -- Historical Food Fortnightly challenge #14
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ingredients for a Florentine of Marrow. Photo: Elizabeth Urbach |
What
foods have you always wanted to attempt, but were afraid to attempt to make -
or afraid to eat? Choose a dish that is either tricky to create or
nerve-wracking to eat, and get adventurous! It’s historical Fear Factor!
I
could have re-done Calf's Foot Jelly from earlier in the year, but I had
trouble finding fresh calves' feet. I
could have done Beef Tongue, but a few other people chose the same thing, and
while I will probably try it myself later, I preferred to work with a different
ingredient, to give the challenge postings more variety. I also thought about doing stuffed beef
heart, or kidneys, but had trouble finding fresh ones, even at the local
Filipino grocery store. Then I saw beef
marrow bones at my regular grocery store, and that sealed the deal. I've heard of marrow bones being a popular dish
even into modern times, but never having had them before, I didn't know what
the commotion was about. I was a bit
turned off by the thought of eating blood, but the bones didn't look very
bloody when I bought them, and I was intrigued.
Instead of making a modern recipe like Osso Bucco, I looked through my
historic recipes and saw that marrow could be substituted for suet and butter
in boiled puddings, as well as used as the filling for fritters, tarts, and
other sweet dishes, mixed with spices, dried fruit and candied citrus
peel.
The
history of eating bone marrow goes back to prehistoric times. Archaeologists are always finding bones and
bone fragments in the kitchen refuse heaps that are dug up, and it seems that
until the Medieval era, the bones were simply roasted or boiled for broth, and
then broken to extract the marrow, which was then eaten as a dish by
itself. Removing the marrow and using it
as an ingredient in other recipes became very common by the 16th
century, with recipes for rissoles, pies, puddings, and tarts containing marrow
in the filling, with sugar, spices, and dried fruit. The 17th and 18th
centuries seem to have been the heyday of marrow's popularity, with multiple
recipes for marrow puddings, both boiled and baked, marrow tarts, pasties,
fritters, and other sweet dishes. By the
19th century, marrow seemed to be most popular as a dish of
beef-bones, roasted or broiled, replaced by suet and butter in puddings and
other desserts, although many Victorian cookbooks still include a recipe for
marrow pudding.
Recipe
books, along with other publications, record the rapid increase in knowledge
and innovation characteristic of the Enlightenment, with new dishes, and new
names for old dishes, abundant. The
Florentine is one such dish; a variation on a regular custard tart, Florentines
are baked puddings, in a puff pastry crust, or simply in a buttered dish with
an edging of puff pastry, with a filling of eggs and cream or milk, with any
combination of sugar, marrow, butter, suet, fruit, sweetmeats, spices or other
flavorings, and bread crumbs. Generally
sweet, Florentines could also be savory, with vegetables, herbs, marrow or
suet, and gobbets of meat as the filling.
I chose to re-create a recipe from 1674 because I had all the
ingredients already; the book, English
and French Cook, is on Google Books.
Happy New Year 2015!
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AntiqueClipArt.com |
I was going to post a new challenge for the Historical Food Fortnightly series, but the beef marrow I was going to use to make a Florentine of Marrow, went bad before I could use it so I had to throw it out! I went ahead and tried to make the Florentine without the marrow, but I'm not sure that it's that accurate to the recipe, so I may or may not post about it until I can get some fresh marrow.
Anyway, I did get to use my grandma's food grinder to make the filling for some cuccidati, and I was able to make 3 dozen gluten-free cuccidati for my aunt and cousin, so I wasn't totally useless while waiting for the New Year! The plan for this morning (if I have time) is to make a Devil's Food cake from scratch to bring to my sister's house this afternoon.
I hope you all have a great year in 2015!
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Now stir the fire, and close the shutters fast,
Let fall the curtains, wheel the sofa round,
And, while the bubbling and loud-hissing urn
Throws up a steamy column, and the cups
That cheer but not inebriate, wait on each,
So let us welcome peaceful evening in.
-- William Cowper (1731-1800)
"The Winter Evening" (Book Four), _The Task_ (1784)
Let fall the curtains, wheel the sofa round,
And, while the bubbling and loud-hissing urn
Throws up a steamy column, and the cups
That cheer but not inebriate, wait on each,
So let us welcome peaceful evening in.
-- William Cowper (1731-1800)
"The Winter Evening" (Book Four), _The Task_ (1784)